the city of light! the city of love! the city of baked goods so good they will make you cry! even now with tour groups of emily in paris fans wearing red berets, it’s a city whose magic is never lost and can’t be captured anywhere else. our most recent parisian trip this past october was a longer one that gave us time to go back to old haunts and try new spots, with long walks to take it all in. we bought baggy jeans and loafers to blend in with those french girls, watched painters on the hill of parc buttes chaumont, drank natural wine out of plastic cups on the seine, and spent most of our time manger beaucoup. (eating. a lot.)
hardly a paris guide, this is a short list of not fancy places we like, mostly food related, that we’ve collected from trips over the past 15 years and from friends. put on some carla bruni and read on for spots with good vibes in the most romantic city in the world.

bisous x,

katie & erin  


vivantalmost too good to share, the best spot with the best playlist in paris. tiny, with only a few seats, all on the bar to watch the chefs in action. have a drink at deviant next door pre dinner. (the food there is just as good!)

 le verre voletiny wine bar by the canal st. martin

early junesmall plates and natural wine, also near canal st. martin

clamatocool, rustic-chic seafood restaurant in the 11th 

le saint sebastiannatural wines & small plates

le cadoretclassic french bistro on a bustling corner

 le collier de la reinetapas-style counter seat dining from a group of chefs we love

hotel amourthe first placed katie ever stayed in paris! a cool vibe and secret courtyard 

le grand bain- insanely good tapas and– what else– natural wine

bouche- minimal and cool

paul bert- a classic! get the steak frites and soufflé

kodawari ramen- who goes to paris to eat ramen? you should! this tiny spot has a long line, decor to make you feel like you’re in old world tokyo and broth worthy of a flight (& worthy of its michelin star)

racines- italian perfection. worth making the res months in advance.

richer- delish food in a pretty space on a corner to watch the world go by

bakeries + more

du pain et des idées- lives up to the hype

des gateaux et du pain- easy stop after le bon marche (and citi pharma!) and just the best pastries we’ve ever had. bring back containers of sables for gifts.

french bastards- come for the name, stay for the bread

other great bakeries for your map: gilles marchal, la patisserie cyril lignac

classique- a cool cocktail bar with cool food, too

a l'etoile d'or- half the reason we come here to buy pounds of sugar is the old time-y charm of the candy store and the pretty vintage candy wrappers

coutume cafe- go-to for siphon coffee & a lovely neighborhood to walk around

bread & roses- grab a tarte de citron and walk over to jardin de luxembourg to enjoy it with a view

folderol- ice cream and natural wine. omfg.

all the natural wine bars

delicatessen place

le cave a michel


terra (be sure to order food here, too!)

clown bar (and here!)


bastille sunday market- clothes, trinkets, and everything you’d want in a sunday french vintage stroll 

dehillerin- a cook’s paradise, since 1820

saint-sébastien - froissart

take the metro here when you are ready to shop:

zespa (cool french sneakers), boutique general, R.S.V.P. bags, french trotters, merci, isabel (needs-no-last-name), soeur, apc, and more

haute marais- have a drink at candelaria and then just wander

laurance bras

a parisian brand with casual style: classic peasant blouses, great blazers and they even spray their signature scent on the tissue when you check out


if you want efficiency, le bon marche and galleries lafayette have lots of french brands in one place, and now gl has a big section of vintage vendors. do not miss the gourmet food hall and get all your souvenirs here.



kiliwatch- big and edited well– gears towards a more youthful look but is full of on trend vintage. 

celia darling- we always find something special here and the neighborhood is nice to walk around

 thx god i’m a vip- prob our favorite. can get pricey but full of finds.

chinemachine- when you’re in montmartre, this corner shop is a fun one to search for treasure. if you get hungry, pigalle is full of places that fit the bill (buvette is a fave and frenchie at the hotel grand pigalle is a cozy stop when it’s cold).


we have yet to find the place to check every box without shelling out too much (reply if you have a winner!) but we do love la pavillon de la reine. you can’t beat the location in the place de vosges and it’s charming inside, although rooms are teeny. next on our list to try is château voltaire.

other fun things 

musee carnavalet: the paris history museum is fun to wander, in a beautiful building near the palace de vosges

a beer at rosa bonheur in parc des buttes chaumont

wandering near canal st. martin in the evening

picnic on the seine, and bouncing from kiosk to kiosk

bring back 

french sneakers

food gifts from the galleries lafayette food hall: from gourmet to grocery, and regional specialty foods from all over france 

pastries. sables. macarons. caramels.

anything you find in monoprix: it’s like french super target

perfume from buly 1803




Arequipa sweater in black 

Verona circle skirt and capri top in marigold

Beach pant in oatmeal / pichu pichu sweater in ecru

Kerala short dress in parakeet

Geneva blouse in ecru


tag us the next time you're in paris!


erin + katie

February 06, 2023